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1. Roux – Equal parts flour to fat (clarified butter is traditional). There are three different stages for rouxs including white, blond and brown. Full thickening power is not realized until sauce or soup is brought up to a simmer after the roux is incorporated. For ratios and more detailed guidelines, check out this post on how to make and use a roux.

2. Liason – A mixture of heavy cream and eggs, added just at the end of the cooking process to slightly thicken, but mostly enrich, sauces and soups. The standard ratio for a liaison is 16:1:2. So for every 16 ounces (or one pint) of sauce, you will need 1 egg yolk and 2 ounces of cream. The liaison will be tempered with up to 1/3 of the warm sauce or soup before incorporated. This helps to keep the eggs from coagulating. For more information, check out this post on how to make and use a liaison.

3. White Wash – A mixture of water and flour is whisked together into a “slurry” before being incorporated into a sauce. The water helps to hydrate the starch molecules in the flour, preventing the flour from clumping when it hits the hot sauce or soup. This is an extremely poor technique to use. It is only listed here for sake of completeness.

4. Beurre Manie – Also known as “The Lazy Chef’s Roux,” Beurre Manie is equal parts of flour and whole butter kneaded together until it forms something like a dough. Pieces of this dough are then broken apart and added to simmering sauces or soups to thicken them. It is recommend that you simmer the sauce for at least 20 minutes more to cook out any raw, starchy flavor the flour introduces. Use the same ratios of Beurre Manie that you would a Roux.

5. Corn Starch – Has twice the thickening power of flour. Most commonly added to a soup or sauce in a slurry form, using a 1:1 mixture of water to Corn Starch. To thicken a sauce or soup with the consistency of water to a traditional nape stage (coats the back of a spoon), you will need 2 oz of Corn Starch for every 1 qt of sauce or soup. Full thickening power will not be realized until your sauce begins to simmer. Corn Starch has tendency to give sauces a smooth and shinny appearance. It is used extensively in Asian cooking, especially Chinese Cuisine.

6. Arrow Root- Very similar to Corn Starch with the same thickening power. It is used exactly in the same fashion as Corn Starch to thicken sauces and soups. Has a much more neutral taste than Corn Starch, but tends to be more expensive. Most commonly added as a slurry, and its full thickening power is not realized until the sauce is brought to a simmer.

7. Farine – Literally the French word for “flour”. As a thickening technique it refers to dusting your product (usually a protein) in flour. The excess flour is then shaken off, and the product is sauté d. The pan is then usually de-glazed, and a sauce is built on top of this base. Also commonly used to build a base for thick soups and stews.

8. Panade – Most commonly used to stabilize and bind meat balls and pâtés, it is usually a mixture of day old bread and some sort of liquid; stock, milk, water, etc. In the case of thickening sauces or soups, the bread is usually browned in butter and then simmered into the base that you wish to thicken. It can either be left as is, or blended and strained for a more refined consistency.

9. Food Grade Gums – Food grade gums are really emerging as the thickening agent of choice in a lot of high end kitchens. They’re gaining popularity because they are extremely neutral in flavor and are added in such low concentrations (usually les than 0.5% by weight), that they have no effect on color or flavor. One of the most commonly used food grade gums for this purpose is Xanthan Gum, which can be picked up at a lot of health foods stores.

UPDATE: You can find our instructional video on how to make mayonnaise here.

Like many of the mother sauces, a well made mayonnaise is the base to an endless possibility of cold, emulsified sauces. Although now days there are many good quality commercial mayonnaise available, understanding how to make a mayonnaise is basic knowledge that every cook or chef should have. Not to mention, that with the selection and use of high quality products, fresh made mayonnaise can have a far superior flavor to that of its commercial counterparts.

Some Guidelines for Making Mayonnaise

• Use a blender, food processor or a stand-top mixer with a whisk attachment. Not only will it ensure that your arm doesn’t fall off from hand whisking, but the shearing power of these devices is capable of breaking the oil into much smaller droplets, making a more stable emulsion.

• Have both your egg yolks and oil at room temperature before starting. It will make the emulsification process much easier.

• Use the freshest eggs possible, preferably organic from a farmer’s market. If cooking for children or the elderly, pasteurized egg yolks are always recommended.

Standard Ratio for Mayonnaise

At it’s most basic level, mayonnaise is simply a neutral oil emulsified into egg yolks. The ratio for a basic mayonnaise is:

• 1 yolk per 1 cup of neutral oil (canola, safflower, grape seed).

Although many classical recipes call for the addition of other ingredients, egg yolks and oil are all you need to make a mayonnaise. Some additional ingredients that are used to season mayonnaise are:

• Vinegar

• Salt

• Pepper (usually white)

• Dry Mustard

• Cayenne Pepper

• Lemon Juice

Standard Recipe For 2 Cups of Mayonnaise

1. 2 egg yolks

2. 1/2 table spoon of vinegar

3. 1/2 teaspoon salt

4. 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

5. Small Pinch cayenne

6. 2 cups Salad Oil (canola preferred)

7. 1 Tablespoon Vinegar

8. 1-2 Tablespoons Lemon Juice

• Put ingredients 1-5 into a blender, food processor or KitchenAid with a whisk attachment and mix well.

• Very slowly at first, start streaming in your oil, a little at a time until your emulsification starts to form.

• Use the 1 tablespoon of vinegar to thin the mayonnaise if it starts to become too thick before the emulsification is complete.

• Once all the oil is incorporated into egg yolks and the mayonnaise is finished, it should be thick enough to be turned upside down without the mayonnaise coming out of the mixing container.

• Adjust the final seasoning with the lemon juice, salt and pepper (white, cayenne or black pepper depending on preference).

What’s The Difference Between Mayonnaise and Aioli

A common question asked is what’s the difference between mayonnaise and aioli. Now days, the term aioli has been bastardized by some chefs to be synonymous with any flavored mayonnaise. However, there is an exacting classical distinction between mayonnaise and aioli.

The difference between mayonnaise and aioli is the simple fact that aioli is made with extra virgin olive oil and has the addition of crushed garlic. So to make aioli, follow the standard recipe above, but instead, substitute the canola oil for extra virgin olive oil and add 1 tablespoon of fresh minced garlic to the egg yolks during the blending/beating process.

The simplified ratio for Aioli is:

• 1 egg yolk + 1 cup extra virgin olive oil + 1 teaspoon of crushed garlic = Aioli.

• This ratio can be seasoned with lemon juice, salt and pepper to yield a simple and traditional Aioli.

Mayonnaise Based Sauces

As stated before, mayonnaise is a great base to use for making other unique sauces. One of my all time favorite cook books “Charcuterie” by Michael Rhulman and Brian Polcyn, makes these suggestions:

• For Pork try adding some cumin, cayenne and lime juice.

• For Fish add saffron and garlic.

• For Chicken add lemon juice and tarragon.

• For Beef add a little fresh horse radish (I would also recommend some fresh chopped chives).

Another very traditional mayonnaise based sauce is Remoulade which is traditionally served with fish. To make a traditional remoulade you will need:

• 2 Cups of Mayonnaise

• About 1 tablespoon of good Dijon

• 1/4 cup finely chopped cornichons (Tiny, French, Sweet Pickles)

• Tablespoon chopped capers

• 1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped

• 3 tablespoons chopped parsey

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chervil

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

Mix all ingredients together and serve with fish. This is a great dipping sauce for fish and chips!

To make other mayonnaise based sauces, start with 2 cups of freshly made or neutral store bought mayonnaise and add:

• Thousand Island Dressing: 1/2 cup chili sauce, 1/2 ounce minced onion, 1 ounce finely chopped green pepper, 1 ounce drained pimiento.

• Louis Dressing: same as Thousand Island with the addition of 1/2 cup heavy cream.

• Russian Dressing: 1/2 cup chili sauce or catsup, 1 ounce fresh horseradish, 1.2 ounce minced onion.

• Chantilly: 1/2 cup of heavy creamed whipped until a stiff peak and added in just before service.

• Blue Cheese Dressing: substitute one cup of mayonnaise for one cup of sour cream (optional but really good), add 1 ounce white vinegar, /2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, 4 ounces crumbled bleu cheese; thin with 1-2 cups heavy cream, half and half or buttermilk.

• Ranch Dressing: 1 1/2 cups sour cream, 1/2 cup buttermilk, 2 ounces wine vinegar of your choice, 1/2 ounce lemon juice, 1/2 ounce Worcestershire sauce, 2 Tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chopped chives, 1-2 crushed garlic cloves, 1 scallion (green onion) finely chopped, 2 teaspoons celery seed.

Sauce Veloute is a very simple member of the Five French Mother Sauces that is used for a base to make many different secondary sauces and leading sauces.
 

Standard Ratio and Recipe for Sauce Veloute

• 4 ounce blond roux (2 ounces clarified butter and 2 ounces all purpose flour)
• 1 1/4 quarts hot, White Stock (Veal, Chicken, or Fish)

1. Heat up your white stock in a heavy bottom sauce pan.
2. In a separate pan, cook roux to a blond stage.
3. Allow roux to cool slightly before adding it to the gently simmering stock.
4. Whisk stock and roux together and bring to a gentle simmer.
5. Allow to simmer for about 45 minutes to 1 hour.
6. Adjust consistency by adding more hot stock if necessary. Recipe should yield 1 qt of sauce at the “napé” stage, meaning the sauce should thinly coat the back of a spoon.
7. Finish by straining through a chinois or a strainer lined with cheesecloth.
8. Note: Do not season your Veloute. Veloute is always used as a foundation for other secondary sauces and small sauces, at which time you will season the sauce as a whole.

Now that you have the basic recipe for sauce Veloute, lets look at some of its secondary and small sauces.
 

Sauce Vin Blanc (White Wine Sauce)
 

Sauce Vin Blanc is a variation of secondary sauce based on fish Veloute. Not surprisingly, the White Wine Sauce goes great with just about any type of fish or seafood dish.

• 4 oz dry white wine
• 1 quart fish Veloute
• 4 oz heavy cream
• 1 oz butter
• Salt, White Pepper and Lemon Juice to taste.

1. Reduce your white wine by half and then add your fish Veloute.
2. Reduce your Veloute until it coats the back of a spoon. This consistency is referd to as “napé.”
3. Temper cream and stir into the Veloute.
4. Right before serving, swirl in you butter and season with salt, white pepper and a couple drops of lemon juice.
5. Strain through a chinois and serve.

Sauce Supreme
 

Sauce supreme is a very simple variation based on Chicken Veloute. Since this sauce is so simple, it’s very important to make sure that your chicken stock is made properly and of high quality. Use heavy whipping cream and European butter if you can find them. This sauce is traditionally served with poached or steam chicken, or any other type of poultry dish with delicate flavors.

• 1 qt chicken Veloute
• 1 cup heavy cream, warm
• 1 oz butter
• Salt, White Pepper and Lemon Juice to taste.

1. Reduce Chicken Veloute by 1/4.
2. Add in warm, heavy cream.
3. Swirl in butter
4. Season with salt, white pepper and lemon juice to taste.
5. Strain through a chinois and serve.

Sauce Allemande
 

Sauce Allemande is another simple sauce based on Veal Veloute. But with the richness of the Liason and the brightness of the fresh lemon juice, this sauce is simply amazing. This is a perfect sauce for Veal Scallopini.

• 1 qt of Veal Veloute
• 2 egg yolks (for liaison)
• 4 ounce heavy cream (for liaison)
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• White Pepper and Salt to taste

Small Sauces Based on Veloute
 

Although you can use Veloute as a base to make your own, uniquely flavored sauces, there are some traditional “small sauces” that use Veloute as its base.
 

Sauce Poulette

• Simmer 8 ounces of white, button mushrooms with when making 1 quart of Veloute of your choice.
• Use Veloute to make Sauce Allemande and then strain out mushrooms.
• Finish with 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley and lemon juice to taste.

Sauce Bercy

• Reduce by two-thirds: 2 ounces chopped shallots and 1/2 cup white wine.
• Add 1 quart Fish Veloute and simmer for about 10-15 minutes, reducing slightly.
• Turn of heat and finish sauce by swirling in 2 ounces raw butter.
• Season with chopped parsley and lemon juice to taste.

Sauce Normandy

• Bring 1 quart of Fish Veloute to a simmer.
• Add 4 ounces of mushrooms and 4 ounces of oyster liquid or fish fumet.
• Reduce by 1/3.
• Finish with a liaison of 4 egg yolks and 1 cup heavy cream.
• Strain and swirl in 3 ounces of raw butter off the heat.

Further Information

• SCS 10| Sauce Veloute
• SCS 2| Stocks Part 1
• SCS 3| Stocks Part 2
• Fish Stock - Basic Recipe
• Chicken Stock - Basic Recipe
• Veal Stock - Basic Recipe
• How To Make and Use A Liaison